I fear some of my favorite NY designers are getting on in years and struggling to keep up. They are throwing up designs they feel the 30-somethings will put up on TikTok. Unfortunately, many of the legends fell short this season. So, No More Goth: Here Are NYFW Spring Summer 2024 Collections!
I hate to think there will be a day when designers like Ralph Lauren and Carolina Herrera will no longer be on the roster of coveted luxury NY fashion houses. Let’s pray to the fashion gods that my beloved Michael Kors will go on until the end of time. Can’t imagine a fashion world without him.
Not all the legendary houses’ successors have moved the fashion needle forward as all of fashion-dom expects from New York.
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Trends for Spring/Summer 2024
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* First Time Covering
No More Goth: Here Are NYFW Spring Summer 2024 Collections
3.1 Phillip Lim
Since this is the first collection on the list, I better make this review phenomenal, right? LOL.
I will say that within the first 2 minutes, you are hooked. This collection is fresh, light, and more importantly, SELLABLE! Get in line behind me.
I wish I could write more than I WANT IT ALL! Alas, this is how I feel. Every look is an innovative gem. The capelet jackets, the skirts, and even the tailored shorts are covetable. Not to mention the shoes, bags, and jewelry.
This is the epitome of luxury streetwear. These are clothes that make you leave the house feeling confident. These are not pieces to keep in your closet for a specific occasion. These clothes want to be seen but in a quiet, chic way.
Adeam
Looking at the thumbnail, as a former dancer, I knew I would love the show. Now, let’s get to it.
From the beginning you know the POV. Feminine strength with a softness that reminds us we are still women.
All the trends are represented from pearls to ruffles and lingerie looks for days. Tulle was a major fabric of the collection and not just the details, but entire garments.
Reminiscent of 20s lingerie style the collection has separate slips and tanks. The shoes are updated desert dad sandals for 2024.
About 5 minutes in there is a black lace pantsuit I am salivating over. Naturally, I loved the ballet segment; made me nostalgic for my days én pointe!
A great collection with many pieces to add to your wardrobe that can be pulled out season after season. There is always room in your closet for a beautiful camisole or a tulle underskirt, right?
Alice + Olivia
Thank the heavens Stacey is back to posting her presentation on YouTube. I missed you girl!
As always, it’s short but sweet. She really knows how to edit her videos to capture a ton of looks in a short time.
I feel a bit like Groundhog Day when I see the A+O collections because I say the same thing every season: I WANT IT ALL!!
Year after year, Stacey gives all she’s supposed to give. I mean, just look at the denim jacket in the thumbnail, and it only gets better from there. I will be fighting you all for the denim pieces and the long floral printed skirt, OBSESSED!
Don’t get me started on the white section. I am adding that beaded tank top to my cart right now!
Stacey really gives you her signature in the sequin pieces, keeping it fresh for 2024. The lingerie trend is in the brand’s DNA, so it feels right.
I love that she sticks to her own color palette instead of the trending muted tones. A+O used bold colors; even the floral print is saturated to the max.
I love you, Stacey; you can do no wrong! Naturally, I watched it four times.
Altuzzara
It’s all covered here. From the transitional wool coats, cashmere sweaters, and jackets to the lingerie trending pieces and killer bags!
The colors are both strong and soft. The grey that Joseph used is all over the runways for spring/summer. I have also seen many designers embrace polka dots for 2024, and Altuzarra also covers this mini-trend.
OBSESSED with the little peekaboo bras spilling over the top of dresses and tops. He also gives us lingerie-inspired tap pants that I am dying over. I’m putting those ankle-length, leather circle skirts in my cart immediately.
Every piece is worth a like and a share. Another incredible collection, Joseph!
Anna Sui
No one does the romantic 70s better than Anna. All the spring/summer 2024 trends play right into Anna’s POV. Lingerie, crochet, and playful colors are what the Anna Sui brand is all about.
I love the hand-painted cargo pants and the crocheted skirt set. The quilted pink bed jackets over the lingerie dress—yes, PLEASE! Anna loves accessories, and this season was no exception. The bags are sweet, and the headscarves will be worn the world over.
She plays with both muted and bold color palettes this season. From aubergine to soft blues and mint green. Bravo, Anna, yet another successful collection!
Badgley Mischka
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Brandon Maxwell
The collection says you will notice my elegance; I will not be sitting in the corner.
Look 3 has me floored with the capelet over the sleeveless collared button-down shirt dress, opened with the underskirt and bold silver buckle belt: LIVING!
Every look is WOW. Even denim had its moment in the sun by mixing it with metallic fabrics, GENIUS! In quiet moments like wool trench coats, cashmere sweaters, or hip-length fitted blazers; it’s pure art.
The aubergine leather dress with gold and leather details is just as phenomenal as the jewelry and bags. I am fighting you all for the multi-colored metal chainmail style skirt with the oversized turtleneck sweater.
For spring/summer, Brandon did not lean into lingerie, but many trends are still represented like sheer.
Brandon, you KILLED IT!
Bronx and Banco
This is only my second or third time (check my archived blogs) covering the Bronx and Banco collection. The designers took us to the jungle for spring/summer 2024.
Ruffles, fringe, sequins, and beading are the focus of the collection. I am really impressed with the draping; to do it in sequins and make it look effortless is masterful.
The looks are fresh, unexpected, and beautiful. If I had to pick one thing to change it would be the color palette. Although there are colors that are on trend, it was a miss for me.
Bruce Glen
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Carolina Herrera
Runway starts at 21:50
I don’t know that I have ever been let down by a CH collection and I am not saying this one does. However, I have seen Wes Gordon (designer since 2018) bring more innovation to his work. It all felt a bit, “I’ve done it before so why add it back to my closet at these prices?”
The core CH customer is an older client, however, in my 50s I felt the designs are a bit matronly.
There are some lovely pieces, but I believe other designers gave more of a modern take to the trends. Tulle, sheer, baby doll dresses, and soft color palettes mixed with strong neutral pieces are represented.
Christian Cowan
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Christian Siriano
Every season Christian gives us something new. For spring/summer 2024 he gives us menswear. Now that every designer is making womenswear for men, it makes sense that Christian would as well. From corsets to ball skirts, he GIVES IT to the boys this season.
Christian always does black but this season it is a featured color. I will admit I missed his bold colors and the sassy prints he is known for. Black, white, light grey (trend), gold, and pops of blue and pink are the other colors he works with. When he does give us color, it’s a WOW. That silver ombre is FIRE!
Christian has been doing tulle since the beginning of his career so for spring/summer he modernized it for 2024.
DYING for the silver/rose ombre wide-leg tuxedo, and the ribbon gown with the tulle bottom.
You know I LOVE a Coco Rocha moment! She SLAYS the finale look, which is gorgeous.
Coach
If you have seen any of my other fashion blogs, then you know I cover Coach because I worked for the brand for many years. They are the epitome of luxury leather and bags a la Hermès.
For spring/summer 2024, they staged the collection at the New York Public Library. Although Coach does fashion, it’s not the first focus of the brand.
The designs are lovely, but you don’t run to Coach for clothing. The brand knows this, but they still put in the effort to show great leather pieces with some wool designs in the mix.
The trends are there, lingerie, sheer, oversized, but it’s the bags, shoes, and accessories you really are looking for in an amazing Coach collection.
The bags for spring/summer 2024 are also nice but feel a bit done. From last season the heart-shaped bag is back; I heard it was more popular than the Chanel look-a-like. They revamped it for 2024, but I would have liked a few new shapes.
When you watch the show, the vibrant leather high-top tennis shoes are what’s new for the season. They are going to sell big, and I can see millions of us snapping them up as a new staple for our wardrobe.
I would pick up the boots because who doesn’t need a new pair of flat, low, black leather boots or a cute pair of colorful pointy-toe flats?
I am giving the collection a 9 out of 10! Stuart Vevers created some luxury artisan pieces that will be applauded at the register!
The show didn’t make me jump out of my seat, but there are a ton of pieces I am adding to my cart as new staples for years to come!
Cynthia Rowley
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Haleia* “Euphoria”
What a fun brand; I love their POV of party girl chic! The presentation is beyond clickable. I have already started following them on social media; they are a brand to keep an eye on. https://www.instagram.com/haleia/
Obsessed with the first look, the crochet and beaded party dress. Even the earrings are NEXT LEVEL!
Hats off to the stylist; they did an amazing job curating each look. From the shoes to the shades and jewelry, I am all in.
The designers also did a great job keeping with the season’s color palette of lavender, pastels, and soft neutrals.
They left it all on the table, from the sexy swimwear and evening looks down to the covetable bags. LOVE IT!
Helmut Lang
Peter Do’s Vietnamese influence is felt throughout the collection. It’s not trying too hard: effortless chic with a touch of innovation, Perfect for the Helmut Lang customer.
The designs are giving what they are supposed to give. Amazing denim, easy chic dresses, killer suits, incredible shirts, and must-have pants. There are no muted colors in this collection, the pops of color used are bold with intention.
Peter did not make his spin on the lingerie trend, which is refreshing. There is a hint of goth to the collection but not in an obvious, it’s been done before way. As Helmut is Austrian it makes sense for the brand. Everything feels lux and fresh.
I want to snap up all the graphic Ts, tanks, and leather jeans. Stop the presses; the multi-color accented white denim pants and jeans, YAS HUNTY!
Peter Do KILLED IT! Even the ending where the models look like they are walking down a crowded NY street is GENIUS!
Jason Wu
Laser cutting and subtle French prints are huge features of the collection.
You know I love a good Jason Wo trench and for spring/summer, he gives us masterfully done transitional pieces like leather dresses, silk bomber jackets, and of course his take on the trench coat.
The words that came to mind when watching the collection are “quite elegance”; nothing feels forced. It’s not a showstopping collection but many pieces will be snapped up by the NY elite.
Kevan Hall
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LaQuan Smith
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Libertine
It has been years since I have covered a Libertine collection because they stopped posting videos. For spring/summer 2024 I sought them out and found a link to their collection on Vogue’s website. Below are the photos I downloaded to make it easy for you guys to
I am beyond thrilled to have rediscovered this amazing brand; Johnson Hartig (founder & creative director) has not lost his touch. Before I discovered Thom Browne and Tombogo, Libertine was my favorite Avant Garde streetwear brand to follow.
I missed their fun hats and signature tweeds. Love that they brought in the polka dot trend which is not new for the brand. I also missed their signature prints and upbeat color palette.
As with many designers it’s easier to just say I WANT IT ALL, instead of listing every item I want in my cart. Didn’t expect anything less that perfection, which is what Libertine delivers for spring /summer 2024.
LoveShackFancy
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Marc Jacobs
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Marissa Wilson
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Michael Kors
This was the first collection I watched for NYFW; watched it live on 9-11. Was thrilled to be able to watch it all the way here in Belize. I uploaded the edited version because the show started an hour into the broadcast.
You should know by now, that Michael Kors has been my favorite designer since the 80s (next to the late great Alexander McQueen)—LAMINATED! *Friends reference
Having it be the first show I watched for the spring/summer 2024 collections was fated. I went to YouTube that morning to watch my latest video (link to my channel below) and saw the thumbnail that the Michael Kors show will be starting soon. Fortunately, my video was scheduled an hour before, so I was able to watch both.
Naeem Khan
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Oak & Acorn
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Pamella Roland
Love that she starts the collection with her signature show stopping red carpet designs, but I am most attracted to Pamella’s daywear pieces.
Fighting to the death for that marabou feather and sequin pink strapless mini dress and the navy sequin and tulle knee-length cocktail dress; THROWING ELBOWS to get this confection!
Ladies, start getting on the wait list if you want to slay for the next red-carpet season. Pamella has you covered from the galas to the movie premiers!
Every piece is a MOMENT, and I am all here for it! Don’t sleep on the jewelry designs because they alone are going to sell big.
There is a little something for everyone depending on your high-end event. Do you need a new black gown for your charity ball or a sexy jewel-tone dress for your entrepreneurial annual luncheon? It’s all here for you.
Prabal Gurung
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Proenza Schouler
It’s the collection the downtown girls look forward to, and this season was no exception. They come for the luxury hipster vibe, and for spring/summer 2024, the boys delivered HARD!
Jack and Lazaro give us designs in such a way that everyone wants to wear them, not just 20-somethings. Even in my 50s, I can see adding many looks (head to toe) to my cart!
Make sure you are not missing the incredible shoes and bags Proenza Schouler is known for, along with their amazing jackets and coats.
I love the mix of color palettes from watercolor pastels to bold colors like tomato red and every downtown girl’s favorite, black. Exceptional collection!
Ralph Lauren
Runway starts at 16:00
For spring/summer the legend designed a collection that is luxury to the max that will appeal to a wide range of ages.
However, it feels like Ralph was trying to capture the same magic he had with his fall/winter 2023 collection, unfortunately, this one fell a little flat for me. In my opinion, it doesn’t feel fresh or innovative.
All the classic Ralph Lauren pieces are represented: impeccably tailored trousers, and no one designs blouses like Ralph. Do you need to run out and get every piece, No. But there are a few hits in the collection, like the suits, if you need an updated staple.
Rodarte
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Sergio Hudson
The collection is giving upper west side “Power Woman”, and the styling is masterful down to the sunglasses and gloves.
The orange leather corset and the denim pieces are IT for me! The robe-style denim jacket is EVERYTHING. Love that they took the backward shirt trend from last year and brought it back in a modern way for 2024.
What’s not to love in this collection; The large paillette pieces will be flying out of the stores. The suits are fierce, even the simple day dresses, I’m LIVING!
Simkhai
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Tadashi Shoji
Calling all ladies who lunch, this is your collection. Like all Tadashi collections, it is incredibly romantic. He embraces the ruffle trend but does it in his way, which is soft and necessary for the 2024 message.
The inspiration screams SEA! The blues, greens, corals, and pinks, along with the fluid silhouettes, make you feel like you are under the sea.
Every look is perfect, from the hair and makeup to the shoes and jewelry. For spring/summer 2024, Tadashi reminded me why I have been following him for so long and why I will continue. The artistry and craftsmanship are unparalleled. It’s the purest definition of elegance!
Another stunning presentation where you get to see up close and personal every detail of the garments.
Tadashi has been doing presentations instead of a traditional runway since the pandemic. I am thrilled he has kept the tradition; especially for us mere mortals.
The Blonds
The Blonds is one of my favorite designers to cover during NYFW. You know every season they are going to create over-the-top DELICIOUS CONFECTIONS!
This couple (David and Phillip Blond) doesn’t follow the trends, THEY MAKE THE TRENDS! You will see a billion stores knock off (and cheaply, I might add) these luxury rockstar worthy designs.
Every season I remind people these designs aren’t just sexy they are constructed with the finest fabrics and the craftsmanship is on the level of the great couture houses of Paris. This is not streetwear, The Blonds design for stage performances and the nightclubs of Miami & The Hamptons.
The Blonds have been rocking sequin, paillettes, corsets and briefs in their designs long before they became staples for daywear.
They also have the greatest stylist that hits it out of the park every season! From the shoes/boots (every season custom made by Christian Louboutin) to all the jewelry including the hair accessories.
Theophilio
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Tombogo “The Future is Bright”
For the first time, the designer chose to show his collection for spring/summer 2024 during Paris Fashion Week. The Tombogo brand says, “I’m part of the cool kids club, and I know it!”
What we all love about Tombogo is the high level of craftsmanship he puts into each one of his luxury streetwear designs. And spring/summer 2024 is no exception; the details are exquisite.
His designs are always modern, fresh, and innovative. He chooses upcycled fabrics and silhouettes that are all his own. Adding a backpack to the back of a jacket isn’t a new concept, but Tommy always puts his amazing spin on it.
His cargo pieces (shorts, pants, jackets, and more) are known worldwide. The fashionistas are going to kill each other to get these pieces in 2024. The finale look EATS HARD!
Thom Browne
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Tory Burch
Runway starts at 13:30
The pleated, layered bell dresses are an unexpected silhouette for Tory. However, the rest of the collection is very much the brand’s vibe of luxury, uptown chic with a modern flair.
Obsessed with the large, beaded tunic and light grey trench coat. Once again, I urge you not to sleep on the bags, shoes, and jewelry because they are NEXT LEVEL!
For spring/summer 2024, the color palette is soft, with lots of sand, light grey, and mint. She does give you a few punches of color like navy, yellow, and green.
All in all, a very successful collection!
Ulla Johnson
Runway starts at 8:00
Spring/summer 2024 is such a light collection. The lingerie-inspired pieces are beautifully done and needed for 2024. The color palette is very soft, with some great saturated prints mixed in.
Ulla’s signature “western vibe” is minimal, and I was surprised there was no denim, which is another of Ulla’s signatures. Although, I didn’t even notice until the end of the show, so it clearly did not need it!
She focused most of her aesthetic on a tropical theme with leaf prints and beach colors like turquoise and light coral.
Obsessed with the cropped knitted sleeveless sweater with the beaded chainmail details. The tulle trend is done in so many iterations, from skirts and gowns to bathing suits, belts, and shoes—LOVE!
Vivienne Tam
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TRENDS
Classic Summer Staples
- The classic summer staple of crocheted knits is seen in every way, from large chunky with beaded embellishments to closed-stitch cashmere subtle designs.
- Spring/summer naturally means cutouts and back-outs.
- Strappy sandals in both stiletto and flat, even gladiators are not seen as out of style in 2024.
- Pleats are always a necessity in spring/summer and 2024 is no exception.
Carryover from Spring/Summer 2023
- Flower and ruffle details/accessories are still going for 2024.
- Keep it tight because the sheer trend has real staying power for spring/summer 2024. With sheer becoming a real staple, lingerie is the natural next step in fashion.
- Corsets are still going strong, as are pearls.
How to Wear and Care for your Pearl Blog posts on 9-19, make sure to subscribe to get the latest in fashion and beauty. - Gloves and arm warmers in light fabrics are still in, although you don’t see them in everyday looks. Naturally, you can carry over heavier gloves from winter as you transition to spring.
What’s New for the Season
- Underwear as outerwear has been done since Madonna was “Like a Virgin” so it was time for lingerie-inspired designs to make a comeback. Everything from vintage to modern interpretations.
- Next up is belts, belts, belts, in every iteration from leather to fabric flowers.
- I noted a few brands are leaning into the ‘60s & ‘70s with updated summer staples including caftans. Also, the ’60s bell sleeve is back but updated for 2024.
- Soft grey is EVERYWHERE.
- Finally, hemlines are everywhere in spring/summer but for 2024 many designers featured baby doll silhouettes.
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